Le Cascade!

MFT: The empty waterfall
LFP: Having to leave the island

So yesterday, we got to hike to the waterfall in Hanavave (Le Cascade). I set out with the crew (a new group was off watch) and we made sure to book it to the waterfall before the students all got there. Luckily the day before, I had been shown the turn off from the main road for the waterfall hike. So we made pretty good time (we were told about an hour and it only took us about 30 minutes). One minute we were hiking through dense jungle and the next there it was, this gorgeous waterfall. I had seen it the day before during my hike down into Hanavave. The waterfall was maybe 50 ft tall or so and descended into this lovely deep pool. We all swam for a bit (boy was it cold) and enjoyed the feeling of FRESHWATER. I mean most of the time you barely get your hair wet in the freshwater showers on board, so especially for anyone with thick hair, its lovely to just finally feel like it’s getting clean. After about 30 minutes, however, the students arrived en masse.

Now I quite like most of my classmates. But going from a very secluded quiet waterfall paradise to suddenly having 20 people all milling around, talking, shouting, ect., well it takes a bit off the paradise. The good news was that we were pretty much done at that point (well at least not unready to leave). I took a sample right at the waterfall. Sadly, I couldn’t get my camera GPS to work, so here’s to hoping I can find the place on google earth! I told the crew to split up from me and go see the view of Hanavave bay, I had to go collect more sand and they wanted to skid addle.

Its funny, the route to/from the waterfall was really well marked but at one point you pass a locals house. This entails passing two large horned cows along the road (they are tied but its a very long rope). Apparently sometimes the cows charged various members of the group. Anyways, I then collected another sample and was told about a local woodcarver that a couple of people had found. So I went in search of him, aka walking around the only other paved road in Hanavave. I managed to walk past the right people as a woman asked if I wanted to see “le sculptures”, I said yes and was taken to her husband’s shed. He had some very nice carvings done of rose wood and ebony. I ended up actually buying a small serving platter because I have yet to purchase anything other than food. Plus I figured this was pretty durable, lightweight, and reasonable to pack.

I sadly missed the 11 am boat run back to the boat by all of 7 minutes! I did buy another ice cream and I stalked up on snacks for the next leg of the trip (aka a giant bag of doritos). Its amazing how good things taste when you are stuck at sea for days on end. So I’ve found that having some extra snacks to supplement some meals can be perfect (plus if you have a bad day, eating something yummy makes it much better). Anyways, since I was carrying two heavy bags of sediment samples, I decided to just sit at the dock until the next boat run at 1400. I had the foresight to pack my kindle, so I settled in for a read. However, I misjudged the friendliness of the islanders. No sooner than I sat down then people started to come talk to me. Some of them were trying to sell things (but pretty sedately) but most just wanted to chat. The problem of course is that my french is not up to the task. But we managed mostly.


We left Fatu Hiva after dinner. But first we got a local dance done by this adorable 9 year old girl. She sang and danced while her father played the drums and her grandmother watched. It was really sweet and impressive (a lot of words). We fed them lasagna (yummmmmy) and then after they left we started packing up the ship for leaving the islands. It was a fun week in the Marquesas and I for one am very sad to leave them. I must say, if you are looking for gorgeous hikes, dramatic scenery, friendly people, and off the beaten path, the Marquesas are just what you want (just make sure to bring lots of cash as very few ATMS available).

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